Видео

Great to hear it was useful! There is a lot of customization possible so really helpful to narrow in on the process/ratios on some samples before jumping into a larger project.

As long as you use a purified/degummed, higher quality linseed oil, you can in theory use either for window restoration. We would recommend a heated, drying Purified Linseed Oil for most applications. For exterior applications, the Viking Purified Linseed Oil has a small molecular structure, soaks in deeply, and has a 48 hr timeframe typically. A very useful, versatile oil to use. Be careful using a true Swedish raw linseed oil as it will take a long time to fully dry. A purified boiled linseed oil like the Ottosson Boiled LO can also be used. It has a little faster dry time, is what the Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint is made with, and has a larger molecular structure (doesn't soak in as deeply/quickly). Hope this is helpful!

Agreed! The materials and attention to detail found in old homes is basically irreplaceable. We cannot afford to build like this anymore and few have the skill. Enjoy your old home and the restoration process.

Good description of the relationship - the oil and paint combination just allows the painter/craftsperson to work a little more efficiently to build-up the paint film. Once you oil wood, the wood often just gets thirstier, and a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil "primer" is a successful way to get the best of both worlds.

@@Earthandflaxstudio Good to know you say that. It seemed to me when me and a client oiled her garage exterior siding that we put many coats of Allback raw linseed oil on, and guess what, the wood would never seem to get satisfied. We'd just keep applying Allback raw linseed oil and wonder is the wood satisfied yet, and find wow, very thirsty wood. Seems like a case where the more oil the wood has the more it wants.

I think you can get away with either approach certainly. This is the recommendation from Ottosson specifically and I do think it is a successful technique. The oil with a little paint, gets oil into the dry wood, as well as sets up a nice base to apply your undiluted coats of paint upon. Efficiently building up the paint film. Sometimes folks over-oil a wood substrate, not allowing for enough time for the oil to soak in deeply before painting and that can lead to some inefficiencies in the painting process for example.

@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks for the good reply. Good to know. Would you recommend this technique for outdoor wood, such as siding on a wooden garage or wood siding on a house, or wooden windows? Me and a client put numerous coats of raw linseed oil on her wooden garage siding, and we waited almost a week between oiling painting. Partly because it rained sometimes in between the oiling and the first coat of paint. I'm confident we gave the oil plenty of time to dry. The only problem was that the wood was so thirsty we spent all day, a little longer than an average working day, oiling the wooden garage siding. Now we've put three coats of paint on, and mostly it looks great, but there are some shiny and some dry areas still. We plan to fix those with a coat of boiled linseed oil.

@@Earthandflaxstudio So perhaps first coat being 70 % boiled oil and 30% paint can help prevent needing to put many many coats of linseed oil on, and not being sure if the wood is saturated with oil or not, and finding dry areas after numerous coats of oil and three coats of paint. How does that sound?

@@alanclark7325 Add some linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil on all exterior wood surfaces. Wood need to be free of old coatings as well. One coat of primer is usually enough. You can apply too much purified raw linseed oil that can bleed out of the wood grain on a really hot day. This is not a huge problem. You can wipe it off. If the oil is coming out of the wood grain, it can bring some color from within the wood.

Stain and primer is mixed the same. Basically applying a thinned out linseed oil paint.

Exactly, a drier, more porous wood species has the most dramatic capillary action but any wood will show absorption of a natural, purified/degummed linseed oil. A purified/degummed boiled linseed oil has a larger molecular structure so more appropriate for paint making to create an effective paint film on a wood surface - there is still absorption of course but not as dramatic as the Viking Purified Linseed Oil shown in this video.

A cedar stick was used in this test. You can use any wood species of course but a drier, more porous wood species has the most dramatic capillary action. Even a hardwood will show absorption, it will just be a lot slower and will not absorb as much at one time.

Yes, it would be great to create more visual examples to compare the traditional, natural, oil-based materials to conventional, complex petrochemical formulations, as well as various conditions/exposures. The relationship, to wood, specifically but also to metal, masonry, etc., is so different to the encapsulation approach of most commercially available coatings/materials. On the to-do-list!

Flax and hemp in PA is happening! Looking forward to seeing how it progresses in the next few years.

Almost missed your question! Just caught it now. Yes, as you apply another coat or two, the paint film will build-up and even out the bare wood/old paint combination. Basically, the bare wood is very dry, soaking up the oil in the paint and creating a matte finish, whereas the old paint is acting as a barrier and there is no absorption so the finish is shiner. Just be sure each coat of your Linseed Oil Paint is fully dry before applying the next to efficiently build up the paint film to achieve an even finish. You can "prime" the chalky spots where there is bare wood with a little Purified Linseed Oil (if you are using Allback I would recommend their Boiled LO), let dry and then apply the final coat(s). Consider brushing on the oil, letting it soak in for a few hrs, and then wiping off excess before leaving to dry. Then finish painting. Hope this is helpful. Let me know what additional questions come up.

The timeframe for maintenance and reapplication for the Pine Tar finishes can certainly vary based on the quality of the wood that you start with and level of exposure or traffic (for a deck for example). As long as the substrate has a good oil content to start and two-three coats of Pine Tar are applied, in most cases, maintenance in the 8-10 range is reasonable. Visually, it will begin to matte out over time but a matte finish will offer many years of protection. If the wood is very dry to start with, an extra coat within the first few years may be very helpful. Then you begin that 8-10 year maintenance plan. We have a fence here at the shop with one coat of the Red Pine Tar we did in 2018. Cheapest pine available at the big box hardware store and it is looking great. No rot or deterioration. Just looking dry so probably ready for another coat. Hope to do a maintenance video with it soon so you can see condition and what maintenance would look like wish such a simple/rather low quality substrate type. It is helpful to check in on projects and the new stuff always gets the attention. Stay tuned.

No, it does not get sticky when wet. As long as you use a good quality, purified/degummed linseed oil, after the 1-2 week cure time the Pine Tar achieves its final harder finish. It is designed for exterior applications only, so keep that in mind.

To each their own but it is actually not that difficult to remove the sashes. If you are ever contemplating replacing old windows, it is always worth considering restoration, not only for the historic appearance but also the quality of wood/materials used that are unavailable today.

@@Earthandflaxstudio indeed, but invariably the state the sashes means a he'll of a lot of time! Especially the side lights on a bay.

There is a lot of oil in the natural wax so no primer of oil needed on oak. Just apply the natural wax, let soak in, and then buff off the excess before allowing to dry. For the drawer, I wiped in the paint, buffed off, let dry and then waxed, following the steps above. Enjoy!

Thanks! Very nice figuring on the white oak.

Yes, the copper pins run perpendicular and against the glass. If you use the glazing hammer, the hammer sits on the glass to hit the pin squarely to ensure it digs in straight. Glad the video was helpful! Let me know what additional questions come up.

Thanks so much!

Hmm that has not been our experience. Did you prime with their Le Tonk Bio Impression Primer or the Viking Purified Linseed Oil as a first coat as that will greatly increase longevity. If you apply the varnish to a dry wood substrate, it can cause the varnish to become brittle relatively quickly. It is a very popular product for marine applications so has to preform in extreme conditions or boat builders/sailers would not be interested. Best natural, oil-based traditional varnish product that we have found so far. Have a porch floor that is going on 10 years and it gets real beat up. I recommend you try experimenting with processes as I think you can improve your experience with the product for sure. Let us know what additional questions come up.

@@Earthandflaxstudio FYI you said you used #1, you used Parquet. I still wouldn't recommend Le Tonkinois in general, especially not on an interior floor. Always glad to help.

@@richardmckrell4899 I am not sure where the confusion is but this video shows the use of the Le Tonk Bio Impression Primer and the Le Tonk No 1. Linseed Oil Varnish. We do not have a video at this time with the Parquet. Maybe we will add sometime in the future for that option. Let me know if any additional questions come up.

It really depends on the paint brand if we recommend a "primer" coat of the Purified Linseed Oil or a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil ratio (as is recommended by the Ottosson brand). In this case, the Viking brand is a very oily formulation so does not require a "primer" coat to nourish the dry substrate before applying undiluted coats of paint. You can of course "prime" but it is also possible to over oil the substrate too quickly. Too much oil, without the time needed for it to soak in more deeply, means your coats of Linseed Oil Paint have no where to go and you create some inefficiencies in your process. This is just a difference between brands, formulations, and technique that the individual craftsman can decide what works the best for them. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.

@@Earthandflaxstudio I was reading some paint manufactures instructions online from the early 1900's and they had very specific linseed oil, pigment and solvent ratio instructions depending on the coat and the wood condition. Viking and Allback should address this issue. I know I should have some pigment & maybe solvent in my primer coat to get pigment in the wood pores but don't know the ratios. Saying it's up to the craftsman is not adequate. Linseed oil paint manufactures should provide more detailed instructions. If manufactures could do it in the early 1900's, they can do it now.

@@richardmckrell4899 If you use a purified/degummed linseed oil with a small molecular structure, that can soak deeply into a wood substrate efficiently like the Viking Purified Linseed Oil, no solvent is required. It is a traditional technique to use a good quality gum turpentine but it is worthwhile to avoid exposure whenever possible. As I mentioned, the Viking brand does not require an oil primer with or without a solvent as it is such a oil-rich formulation. This is the recommendation from the manufacturer. Apply 2-3 thin, even coats of paint onto a clean, dry exterior surface. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.

We discontinued the Allback about 8 years ago due to the issues of not adding the zinc to the linseed oil paint at the factory. Linseed oil paint must contain zinc to work over time. Ottosson linseed oil paint is not expensive. Acrylic paint is expensive as it cause so much damage and it turns to micro and nano plastic.

Thanks for reaching out. Ottosson and Allback as very similar in formulation. Both are 100% petrochemical and solvent-free. The biggest difference is that Ottosson formulates all their paint colors with zinc, a natural fungicide that creates a slightly harder painted finish. This may have changed in recent years but Allback sells the Zinc Additive separate and the user/painter can add as needed. Too much zinc creates a brittle paint and too little isn't effective so we work with the Ottosson and Viking brands that come pre-formulated to make it easier. We do recommend adding the zinc additive to Allback paint colors in North America. Hope this is helpful! Reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.

@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks! I will check your products next time I need to order some paints.

The pigment builds-up as you apply additional coats to the surface. So, a first coat generally on most substrates will have more transparency. You can also adjust this by doing a higher ratio of Black Pine Tar to oil (say a 30/70 ratio) to get more intensity of color with a single coat. Adjust ratio based on personal preference. The Dark Pine Tar color really depends on the wood species used. It ranges from a light honey to a dark honey color. We recommend you do a few tests with the wood you plan to use for your project to confirm ratio and color preference for both Dark and Light Pine Tar options. Below I've included a few links with examples, including our Instagram, which we use as a project gallery and a helpful article comparing the Light and Dark Pine Tar options on our Learning Center. Hope this is helpful. Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions. instagram.com/earthandflax/ and www.earthandflax.com/post/light-pine-tar-vs-dark-pine-tar

We tried to get a few good close-ups but checked the walk-through video where we discuss all the finishes for this room. See link below. All standard Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint colors will achieve a semi-gloss finish that will matte out over time. We do have a few matte interior options for drywall/plaster walls as well. Hope this is helpful. ruclips.net/video/IMZQ4osTnZY/видео.htmlsi=PPUt7ecf75bp9qJU

You can certainly use the Viking Purified Linseed Oil as your "primer" but we do recommend the Bio Impression Primer since it was formulated for the Le Tonk Linseed Oil Varnish options. It is just a combination of resinous oils. Either option helps nourish the dry wood before buildings-up the surface protection with multiple coats of varnish. I would recommend either option as a first step for a bathroom, then maybe 3 coats of varnish to ensure ideal water repellency and protection since water/moisture will be commonplace in such a space. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.

Thanks! @GreenBuildingNetwork has been inspiring me to make more content.

🙏@@Earthandflaxstudio

Haha well, I sure hope not. If you are waiting that long, you are probably applying way too much paint per coat. Ensure relatively thin, even coats of LO Paint, in 60+ degree temps, and with good air circulation when painting inside. Enjoy and good luck with your first project!

Sounds like you trouble-shot that issue well! Try Ottosson at some point as it does dry a little harder that some other Linseed Oil Paint brands. Can be used for furniture, floors, etc. without additives or top-coating with wax or varnish. May give you a little more versatility ; )

So great to hear you are enjoying the materials and pleased with the results of your tests. Big difference in how the natural, linseed oil-based paints interact with the substrate vs. modern coatings. There is just so much peeling paint around the country! Reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions once you get underway with your exterior project.

Thank you, will do!

Excellent! Sounds like you are on a roll. Don't hesitate to reach out via info@earthandflax.com with project/product questions.

How did you remove the old paint from your door? I assume it was lead paint?

Great to hear! Yes, there should be no issue applying on that surface. We would recommend that you clean old wood before application using a petrochemical-free liquid soap like Linseed Oil Soap. Scrub if needed to remove dirt, carbon, organic growth, loose particulate, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar finish. Generally, rough cut will be thirstier, so to speak, and absorb more natural oils than a smooth cut siding. Hope this is helpful! Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.