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Earth+Flax Studio
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Добавлен 1 ноя 2011
Scandinavian inspired, solvent-free restoration and home products. Project ideas + education.
Maintain your wood structures and surfaces with all-natural Purified Linseed Oil products. Restore old, wood windows to their former glory using time-tested Scandinavian inspired processes and materials. Choose cleaning and body care options that have no chemical additives and are safe, gentle, and non-toxic. Enjoy educational and DIY project/product videos to learn more.
Join Earth+Flax today in building an online community of homeowners and professionals alike who desire better options for work, home, and life.
Please contact info@earthandflax.com with any questions and visit us at www.earthandflax.com.
Maintain your wood structures and surfaces with all-natural Purified Linseed Oil products. Restore old, wood windows to their former glory using time-tested Scandinavian inspired processes and materials. Choose cleaning and body care options that have no chemical additives and are safe, gentle, and non-toxic. Enjoy educational and DIY project/product videos to learn more.
Join Earth+Flax today in building an online community of homeowners and professionals alike who desire better options for work, home, and life.
Please contact info@earthandflax.com with any questions and visit us at www.earthandflax.com.
The Capillary Action of a Purified Linseed Oil on Wood: Time-Lapse [Full]
@Earthandflaxstudio we discuss the incredible preservative properties of a purified/degummed linseed oil a lot, especially in the context of the interaction and absorption when applied to a porous wood substrate.
Enjoy this time-lapse we have created to fully illustrate this relationship using the Viking Purified Linseed Oil and a cedar sample stick.
Watch as the 100% petrochemical-free natural oil penetrates and saturates the wood, filling the capillaries of the one inch thick stick over the course of 4 day period.
Viking Purified Linseed Oil:
www.earthandflax.com/purified-linseed-oil
Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with product or application questions.
www.earthandflax.com
www.earthandfla...
Enjoy this time-lapse we have created to fully illustrate this relationship using the Viking Purified Linseed Oil and a cedar sample stick.
Watch as the 100% petrochemical-free natural oil penetrates and saturates the wood, filling the capillaries of the one inch thick stick over the course of 4 day period.
Viking Purified Linseed Oil:
www.earthandflax.com/purified-linseed-oil
Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with product or application questions.
www.earthandflax.com
www.earthandfla...
Просмотров: 317
Видео
Growing Flax in Philadelphia - Visiting the Terra Luna Herbals Urban Farm.
Просмотров 530Месяц назад
A fun little site visit from the spring here in Philadelphia, PA at the Terra Luna Herbals urban farm. Join us as we learn about the growing of flax from Elise at Terra Luna and her work with the PA Flax Program. Flax is a very useful plant, not only for its potential for agricultural use as a cover grow or for crop rotation but also for textiles and the production of linen. While many of you k...
Custom Linseed Oil Stain and Natural Linseed Oil Wax on White Oak Side Tables [Full]
Просмотров 5803 месяца назад
Interested in beautiful, natural finishes for interior furniture? Here are some @Earthandflaxstudio suggestions for using the natural Viking Linseed Oil Wax, as well as a custom Linseed Oil Stain on a set of white oak side tables. Video covers surface prep, wax application, creating a custom Linseed Oil Stain, stain application, clean-up, and maintenance. This is a 100% petrochemical-free and s...
Talking Materials w/Gunnar Ottosson of Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint
Просмотров 6096 месяцев назад
Join Gunnar Ottosson, the creator of Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint and I at George Washington’s Mount Vernon to chat about his Linseed Oil Paint. At @Earthandflaxstudio , we always enjoy hearing about the journey, the story, the motivations and passions behind a material or product. How and why did he start making Linseed Oil Paint? What is the Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint philosophy? What advice ca...
Le Tonkinois Linseed Oil Varnish Application on White Oak Flooring
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Enjoy these step-by-step application suggestions using the Le Tonkinois Linseed Oil Varnish on white oak interior flooring. Includes some tips and tricks to hone your varnishing skills and get the best results with the Le Tonkinois trifecta of products: Le Tonkinois Bio Impression Primer, Le Tonkinois No 1. Linseed Oil Varnish, and the Le Tonkinois Gelomat Additive. Le Tonkinois Bio Impression ...
South Bend, IN Site Visit: Restoration Project Using Infrared and Viking Linseed Oil Paint
Просмотров 645Год назад
Join @Earthandflaxstudio for a quick walk-around and discussion of this charming restoration project in South Bend, IN. Not only has this project used infrared paint removal and created custom paint colors using the Viking Linseed Oil Paint brand, it is also an interesting and educational example of three different substrate conditions when painting with Linseed Oil Paint: new wood, bare wood a...
Painting Custom Screen Door w/Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.Год назад
Check out this custom screen door project where we review some helpful painting techniques when working with Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint. Completely solvent-free, Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint is an excellent choice for painting both interior and exterior applications. At the @Earthandflaxstudio we focus on sharing the skill, knowledge, and craftsmanship that is so helpful when working with traditi...
Bathroom Project Walkthrough: Design and Material Decisions
Просмотров 9992 года назад
Here is a personal project @Earthandflaxstudio - join me for a walkthrough of the design and material decisions I have made to create this welcoming and cozy bathroom space. All window-trim and wainscoting were painted with solvent-free and petrochemical-free Ottosson Warm Grey Linseed Oil Paint. As always, our goal at www.earthandflax.com is to work with materials that are simple formulations,...
Painting Interior Trim and Paneling w/Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint
Просмотров 4,1 тыс.2 года назад
This bathroom renovation project was the perfect opportunity @Earthandflaxstudio to share the best solvent-free application suggestions for painting interior bare wood surfaces with Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint. We cover surface prep, priming, painting, and plenty of useful tips/tricks. Still have questions? Email info@earthandflax.com with additional application or product questions. Learn more ...
2nd Coat of Black Pine Tar on Exterior Cedar Siding for Matte Finish
Просмотров 20 тыс.3 года назад
Looking for a more matte finish when working with Authentic Black Pine Tar? This video offers some helpful suggestions to do just that. Join @Earthandflaxstudio in Philadelphia, PA on-site for the 2nd coat of Authentic Black Pine Tar and Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil on kiln dried cedar siding. Still have questions? Email info@earthandflax.com with additional application or product questions....
Quick Fix Linseed Oil Putty Repair [On-site Visit]
Просмотров 40 тыс.4 года назад
Quick Fix Linseed Oil Putty Repair [On-site Visit]
Viking Linseed Oil Wax Application Suggestions: New White Oak Flooring Project [Full]
Просмотров 5 тыс.5 лет назад
Viking Linseed Oil Wax Application Suggestions: New White Oak Flooring Project [Full]
Authentic Pine Tar Application Suggestions: Black Pine Tar on Exterior Barn Siding [FULL]
Просмотров 32 тыс.5 лет назад
Authentic Pine Tar Application Suggestions: Black Pine Tar on Exterior Barn Siding [FULL]
How-To Finish Glazing w/DANA Linseed Oil Putty
Просмотров 24 тыс.6 лет назад
How-To Finish Glazing w/DANA Linseed Oil Putty
How-To Back Bed w/DANA Linseed Oil Putty
Просмотров 7 тыс.6 лет назад
How-To Back Bed w/DANA Linseed Oil Putty
Window Restoration w/Linseed Oil Paint and DANA Linseed Oil Putty [Full]
Просмотров 9 тыс.6 лет назад
Window Restoration w/Linseed Oil Paint and DANA Linseed Oil Putty [Full]
Quick Window Back Bedding Technique w/ Allback Linseed Oil Glazing Putty
Просмотров 6 тыс.6 лет назад
Quick Window Back Bedding Technique w/ Allback Linseed Oil Glazing Putty
How-to Mix Viking Linseed Oil Paint and Helpful Application Suggestions
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.6 лет назад
How-to Mix Viking Linseed Oil Paint and Helpful Application Suggestions
How-to Mix Allback Linseed Oil Paint with Allback Zinc White and Extra Manganese Siccative Drier
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.6 лет назад
How-to Mix Allback Linseed Oil Paint with Allback Zinc White and Extra Manganese Siccative Drier
How-to Mix Allback Linseed Oil Paint w/Allback Zinc White Additive Paint
Просмотров 2 тыс.6 лет назад
How-to Mix Allback Linseed Oil Paint w/Allback Zinc White Additive Paint
Generic Linseed Oil Vs. Purified Linseed Oil
Просмотров 13 тыс.6 лет назад
Generic Linseed Oil Vs. Purified Linseed Oil
DIY Workbench Project: Le Tonkinois Linseed Oil Varnish
Просмотров 14 тыс.7 лет назад
DIY Workbench Project: Le Tonkinois Linseed Oil Varnish
How-To Trim Back Allback Linseed Oil Paint For Window Restoration
Просмотров 8 тыс.11 лет назад
How-To Trim Back Allback Linseed Oil Paint For Window Restoration
How-To Use Glazing Pins For Window Restoration
Просмотров 48 тыс.11 лет назад
How-To Use Glazing Pins For Window Restoration
How-To Mix and Apply Shellack Flakes For Window Restoration
Просмотров 2 тыс.11 лет назад
How-To Mix and Apply Shellack Flakes For Window Restoration
How-To Back Bed w/ Allback Linseed Oil Window Glazing Putty
Просмотров 6 тыс.11 лет назад
How-To Back Bed w/ Allback Linseed Oil Window Glazing Putty
How-To Apply Allback Linseed Oil Window Glazing Putty
Просмотров 203 тыс.11 лет назад
How-To Apply Allback Linseed Oil Window Glazing Putty
How -To Prepare Allback Linseed Oil Glazing Putty
Просмотров 28 тыс.11 лет назад
How -To Prepare Allback Linseed Oil Glazing Putty
Window Restoration w/Allback Linseed Oil Products: Part 2 [Full]
Просмотров 122 тыс.11 лет назад
Window Restoration w/Allback Linseed Oil Products: Part 2 [Full]
How-To Open Allback Organic Linseed Oil Paint Can
Просмотров 9 тыс.11 лет назад
How-To Open Allback Organic Linseed Oil Paint Can
Metal window sashes are treated the same way as a wood sash. You do not need the shellac coating on the rebate. The Iron Oxide Minium linseed oil paint is the old metal primer used on exposed metal. Apply the linseed oil putty and paint over with linseed oil paint right away. Remove any loose old glazing compound and follow the steps in this video. If you have mildew, carbon buildup etc, clean with the linseed oil soap first. Make sure the surface us dry and clean.
So I have steel framed windows that were glazed forever ago before i purchased my building, and prolly when it was built.After purchasing and remodeling I spayed painted the window frame and glazing and it looked new, recently from a bad hailstorm and heat here in west texas, some is cracked or small pieces broken off, would I still be able to use this same technique? Since the paint was enamel BLESSINGS
With what you clean off the paint from the glass?
Testing linseed oil stain mixtures for my countertop, this was badly needed info, thank you!
Great to hear it was useful! There is a lot of customization possible so really helpful to narrow in on the process/ratios on some samples before jumping into a larger project.
Any advice or comments about using boiled linseed oil instead of raw linseed oil?
As long as you use a purified/degummed, higher quality linseed oil, you can in theory use either for window restoration. We would recommend a heated, drying Purified Linseed Oil for most applications. For exterior applications, the Viking Purified Linseed Oil has a small molecular structure, soaks in deeply, and has a 48 hr timeframe typically. A very useful, versatile oil to use. Be careful using a true Swedish raw linseed oil as it will take a long time to fully dry. A purified boiled linseed oil like the Ottosson Boiled LO can also be used. It has a little faster dry time, is what the Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint is made with, and has a larger molecular structure (doesn't soak in as deeply/quickly). Hope this is helpful!
I love how much attention to detail and decoration there was on these old houses. Every part had interest and drew the eye. Modern cookie cutter houses are cheap and boring as well. Glad I bought an 80 year old house with lots of character to restore!
Agreed! The materials and attention to detail found in old homes is basically irreplaceable. We cannot afford to build like this anymore and few have the skill. Enjoy your old home and the restoration process.
This is something we have tested for many years. If apply the purified linseed oil first you prevent the pigment from going as deep into the grain as possible. This is why we suggest adding some linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil in the primer coat. We do not usually use the purified raw linseed oil by itself specifically on an exterior. By adding the linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil you also create a better grip for the Linseed oil paint top coats.
Good description of the relationship - the oil and paint combination just allows the painter/craftsperson to work a little more efficiently to build-up the paint film. Once you oil wood, the wood often just gets thirstier, and a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil "primer" is a successful way to get the best of both worlds.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Good to know you say that. It seemed to me when me and a client oiled her garage exterior siding that we put many coats of Allback raw linseed oil on, and guess what, the wood would never seem to get satisfied. We'd just keep applying Allback raw linseed oil and wonder is the wood satisfied yet, and find wow, very thirsty wood. Seems like a case where the more oil the wood has the more it wants.
Neat idea to apply a linseed oil stain as a primer coat, then two coats of undiluted linseed oil paint. I wonder why one would do that instead of applying linseed oil and then three coats of linseed oil paint. Perhaps that saves one step.
I think you can get away with either approach certainly. This is the recommendation from Ottosson specifically and I do think it is a successful technique. The oil with a little paint, gets oil into the dry wood, as well as sets up a nice base to apply your undiluted coats of paint upon. Efficiently building up the paint film. Sometimes folks over-oil a wood substrate, not allowing for enough time for the oil to soak in deeply before painting and that can lead to some inefficiencies in the painting process for example.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks for the good reply. Good to know. Would you recommend this technique for outdoor wood, such as siding on a wooden garage or wood siding on a house, or wooden windows? Me and a client put numerous coats of raw linseed oil on her wooden garage siding, and we waited almost a week between oiling painting. Partly because it rained sometimes in between the oiling and the first coat of paint. I'm confident we gave the oil plenty of time to dry. The only problem was that the wood was so thirsty we spent all day, a little longer than an average working day, oiling the wooden garage siding. Now we've put three coats of paint on, and mostly it looks great, but there are some shiny and some dry areas still. We plan to fix those with a coat of boiled linseed oil.
@@Earthandflaxstudio So perhaps first coat being 70 % boiled oil and 30% paint can help prevent needing to put many many coats of linseed oil on, and not being sure if the wood is saturated with oil or not, and finding dry areas after numerous coats of oil and three coats of paint. How does that sound?
@@alanclark7325 Add some linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil on all exterior wood surfaces. Wood need to be free of old coatings as well. One coat of primer is usually enough. You can apply too much purified raw linseed oil that can bleed out of the wood grain on a really hot day. This is not a huge problem. You can wipe it off. If the oil is coming out of the wood grain, it can bring some color from within the wood.
Stain and primer is mixed the same. Basically applying a thinned out linseed oil paint.
This test was done with Cedar wood but you can do the same thing with any wood as they are all porous more or less. Even Teak will absorb some purified raw linseed oil. Now if you do the same test with the boiled linseed oil we use for making linseed oil paint you will see less capillary action.
Exactly, a drier, more porous wood species has the most dramatic capillary action but any wood will show absorption of a natural, purified/degummed linseed oil. A purified/degummed boiled linseed oil has a larger molecular structure so more appropriate for paint making to create an effective paint film on a wood surface - there is still absorption of course but not as dramatic as the Viking Purified Linseed Oil shown in this video.
Interesting test! Also curious what type of wood this is, and how the linseed oil interacts with different species with different molecular structures?
A cedar stick was used in this test. You can use any wood species of course but a drier, more porous wood species has the most dramatic capillary action. Even a hardwood will show absorption, it will just be a lot slower and will not absorb as much at one time.
Hi! New to Linseed oil products, but loving what I am seeing. Planning to refurbish my entire 1930 house in linseed oil products both because they seem so much better, but also because they would have been correct for the time period of the house anyway. What is the difference between linseed oil paint, stain, and varnish? Also, chemical stains have lots of variance in color between woods, even similar light woods. Does Linseed oil paint/stain/varnish have this same issue or is it more forgiving if say I used it for an oak counter and pine trim? Love your videos, thank you for introducing me to non-chemical alternatives!
Please do more endurance testing videos on pine tar and maybe pine tar and linseed mixture - could be fun to see them exposed to harsh conditions and see how they compare to commercial products.
Yes, it would be great to create more visual examples to compare the traditional, natural, oil-based materials to conventional, complex petrochemical formulations, as well as various conditions/exposures. The relationship, to wood, specifically but also to metal, masonry, etc., is so different to the encapsulation approach of most commercially available coatings/materials. On the to-do-list!
Believe that all individuals interested in Farming Gardening great hobbies habits businesses . thanks .
Hello, how are you? I hope you are well. My name is Jamal and I live in Morocco. I have more than eight years of experience. I work in the field of wood paints and wood dyeing. If you have a job opportunity, I am looking for it. I wish you a happy day.
If you have your 3 coats of linseed oil paint, you may wipe the surface with some purified raw linseed oil to nourish the wood if it really dry. If the linseed oil paint is chalky, this means that the linseed oil in the linseed oil paint has been absorbed into the wood grain exposing the pigment. Discontinued the Allback paint many years ago due to it not containing zinc white from the factory. Linseed oil paint must have zinc white from the start. Making the customer add the zinc did not work in North America. We work with Ottosson and Viking Linseed oil paint only that have been made with zinc white in all colors. www.earthandflax.com www.solventfreepaint.com
nice video! there's some great things happening in the flax world!
Flax and hemp in PA is happening! Looking forward to seeing how it progresses in the next few years.
I'm painting 200 yo window frames which all painting couldn't be removed. The areas that were bare wood are chalky and areas with precious paint are very glossy. Will this fix itself with additional coats? Or should I use a few coats of raw oil on the chalky areas before painting additional coats of Allback paint?
Almost missed your question! Just caught it now. Yes, as you apply another coat or two, the paint film will build-up and even out the bare wood/old paint combination. Basically, the bare wood is very dry, soaking up the oil in the paint and creating a matte finish, whereas the old paint is acting as a barrier and there is no absorption so the finish is shiner. Just be sure each coat of your Linseed Oil Paint is fully dry before applying the next to efficiently build up the paint film to achieve an even finish. You can "prime" the chalky spots where there is bare wood with a little Purified Linseed Oil (if you are using Allback I would recommend their Boiled LO), let dry and then apply the final coat(s). Consider brushing on the oil, letting it soak in for a few hrs, and then wiping off excess before leaving to dry. Then finish painting. Hope this is helpful. Let me know what additional questions come up.
Thank God, those kind of humans exist in all the actual insane world we live in. Long live .
Splendide !
Is 8-10 years between coats true? Do you, or the manufacturer, have pics or videos of what it looks like 5-6-7-8 years after application? It still causes water to bead up? Traditional semitransparent stain typically needs reapplied every 3-4-5 years depending on exposure.
The timeframe for maintenance and reapplication for the Pine Tar finishes can certainly vary based on the quality of the wood that you start with and level of exposure or traffic (for a deck for example). As long as the substrate has a good oil content to start and two-three coats of Pine Tar are applied, in most cases, maintenance in the 8-10 range is reasonable. Visually, it will begin to matte out over time but a matte finish will offer many years of protection. If the wood is very dry to start with, an extra coat within the first few years may be very helpful. Then you begin that 8-10 year maintenance plan. We have a fence here at the shop with one coat of the Red Pine Tar we did in 2018. Cheapest pine available at the big box hardware store and it is looking great. No rot or deterioration. Just looking dry so probably ready for another coat. Hope to do a maintenance video with it soon so you can see condition and what maintenance would look like wish such a simple/rather low quality substrate type. It is helpful to check in on projects and the new stuff always gets the attention. Stay tuned.
Does this get sticky again when wet? If I had used this on a wooden wall that had fabric material touching it, would the pine tar come off onto the fabric went wet?
No, it does not get sticky when wet. As long as you use a good quality, purified/degummed linseed oil, after the 1-2 week cure time the Pine Tar achieves its final harder finish. It is designed for exterior applications only, so keep that in mind.
Helpful information! Thank you.
Yes: Linseed oil putty is used to fill cracks and then painted over with the linseed oil paint right away. Linseed oil putty is not compatible with Acrylic or other plastic fillers etc.
Hi. Does anyone have any information on how linseed oil putty could be used as calking?
Blimey, if you can take the sashes out! Not worth the expense..
To each their own but it is actually not that difficult to remove the sashes. If you are ever contemplating replacing old windows, it is always worth considering restoration, not only for the historic appearance but also the quality of wood/materials used that are unavailable today.
@@Earthandflaxstudio indeed, but invariably the state the sashes means a he'll of a lot of time! Especially the side lights on a bay.
Beautiful!
Blo or raw for the first layer ?
There is a lot of oil in the natural wax so no primer of oil needed on oak. Just apply the natural wax, let soak in, and then buff off the excess before allowing to dry. For the drawer, I wiped in the paint, buffed off, let dry and then waxed, following the steps above. Enjoy!
Nice wood on the drawer fronts, and nice finish on the wood.
Thanks! Very nice figuring on the white oak.
Happy to see you again !
How close are your copper pins to the glass? Touching? Thanks great vid.
Yes, the copper pins run perpendicular and against the glass. If you use the glazing hammer, the hammer sits on the glass to hit the pin squarely to ensure it digs in straight. Glad the video was helpful! Let me know what additional questions come up.
Love what you do!
Thanks so much!
Le Tonkinois linseed oil varnish breaks down pretty quickly when exposed to sun. Takes about a year. I've used it on window interiors and would not recommend it. I'd never use it on floors as it's really not breathable like other linseed oil products and it's not made to be walked on. This video is a bad recommendation.
Hmm that has not been our experience. Did you prime with their Le Tonk Bio Impression Primer or the Viking Purified Linseed Oil as a first coat as that will greatly increase longevity. If you apply the varnish to a dry wood substrate, it can cause the varnish to become brittle relatively quickly. It is a very popular product for marine applications so has to preform in extreme conditions or boat builders/sailers would not be interested. Best natural, oil-based traditional varnish product that we have found so far. Have a porch floor that is going on 10 years and it gets real beat up. I recommend you try experimenting with processes as I think you can improve your experience with the product for sure. Let us know what additional questions come up.
@@Earthandflaxstudio FYI you said you used #1, you used Parquet. I still wouldn't recommend Le Tonkinois in general, especially not on an interior floor. Always glad to help.
@@richardmckrell4899 I am not sure where the confusion is but this video shows the use of the Le Tonk Bio Impression Primer and the Le Tonk No 1. Linseed Oil Varnish. We do not have a video at this time with the Parquet. Maybe we will add sometime in the future for that option. Let me know if any additional questions come up.
You don't treat the bare wood with a coat of linseed oil before you paint? That dry wood must immediately suck the linseed oil out of the paint.
It really depends on the paint brand if we recommend a "primer" coat of the Purified Linseed Oil or a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil ratio (as is recommended by the Ottosson brand). In this case, the Viking brand is a very oily formulation so does not require a "primer" coat to nourish the dry substrate before applying undiluted coats of paint. You can of course "prime" but it is also possible to over oil the substrate too quickly. Too much oil, without the time needed for it to soak in more deeply, means your coats of Linseed Oil Paint have no where to go and you create some inefficiencies in your process. This is just a difference between brands, formulations, and technique that the individual craftsman can decide what works the best for them. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.
@@Earthandflaxstudio I was reading some paint manufactures instructions online from the early 1900's and they had very specific linseed oil, pigment and solvent ratio instructions depending on the coat and the wood condition. Viking and Allback should address this issue. I know I should have some pigment & maybe solvent in my primer coat to get pigment in the wood pores but don't know the ratios. Saying it's up to the craftsman is not adequate. Linseed oil paint manufactures should provide more detailed instructions. If manufactures could do it in the early 1900's, they can do it now.
@@richardmckrell4899 If you use a purified/degummed linseed oil with a small molecular structure, that can soak deeply into a wood substrate efficiently like the Viking Purified Linseed Oil, no solvent is required. It is a traditional technique to use a good quality gum turpentine but it is worthwhile to avoid exposure whenever possible. As I mentioned, the Viking brand does not require an oil primer with or without a solvent as it is such a oil-rich formulation. This is the recommendation from the manufacturer. Apply 2-3 thin, even coats of paint onto a clean, dry exterior surface. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.
We bought a French house and in one room there are old windows that have the old putty crumbling. Thanks for sharing this
Spettacolo
Is there a big difference between Ottosson and Allback? I've been using Allback but I'm just curious (Ottosson seems to be a bit more expensive at least where I'm ordering from)
We discontinued the Allback about 8 years ago due to the issues of not adding the zinc to the linseed oil paint at the factory. Linseed oil paint must contain zinc to work over time. Ottosson linseed oil paint is not expensive. Acrylic paint is expensive as it cause so much damage and it turns to micro and nano plastic.
Thanks for reaching out. Ottosson and Allback as very similar in formulation. Both are 100% petrochemical and solvent-free. The biggest difference is that Ottosson formulates all their paint colors with zinc, a natural fungicide that creates a slightly harder painted finish. This may have changed in recent years but Allback sells the Zinc Additive separate and the user/painter can add as needed. Too much zinc creates a brittle paint and too little isn't effective so we work with the Ottosson and Viking brands that come pre-formulated to make it easier. We do recommend adding the zinc additive to Allback paint colors in North America. Hope this is helpful! Reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks! I will check your products next time I need to order some paints.
Why does the second coat look so much darker than the first coat? Almost looks like a different pigment entirely. Are there examples of how the pre-mixed pine tar "dark" you carry looks on cedar? I'm looking more for a dark walnut look than full pine tar black. Thanks!
The pigment builds-up as you apply additional coats to the surface. So, a first coat generally on most substrates will have more transparency. You can also adjust this by doing a higher ratio of Black Pine Tar to oil (say a 30/70 ratio) to get more intensity of color with a single coat. Adjust ratio based on personal preference. The Dark Pine Tar color really depends on the wood species used. It ranges from a light honey to a dark honey color. We recommend you do a few tests with the wood you plan to use for your project to confirm ratio and color preference for both Dark and Light Pine Tar options. Below I've included a few links with examples, including our Instagram, which we use as a project gallery and a helpful article comparing the Light and Dark Pine Tar options on our Learning Center. Hope this is helpful. Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions. instagram.com/earthandflax/ and www.earthandflax.com/post/light-pine-tar-vs-dark-pine-tar
Would be nice if you showed the end result!!! I can’t see the finish - Matt, satin, etc.
We tried to get a few good close-ups but checked the walk-through video where we discuss all the finishes for this room. See link below. All standard Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint colors will achieve a semi-gloss finish that will matte out over time. We do have a few matte interior options for drywall/plaster walls as well. Hope this is helpful. ruclips.net/video/IMZQ4osTnZY/видео.htmlsi=PPUt7ecf75bp9qJU
I never heard of bio impression primer and what difference does that make instead of using linseed oil from the beginning? I’m looking to do my Moms home and it has mostly oak flooring throughout. Unsure yet as to whether it’s white or red oak because the bathroom had tiles and mastic paste beneath it. The bathroom is puny in dimensions being just over 4 ft 6” x 4 ft 3” so it’s confined. Lol. So after removing that stuff and I’m striving for a gloss finish. Will linseed oil help with being a water repellent? Thanks for sharing the great information!!
You can certainly use the Viking Purified Linseed Oil as your "primer" but we do recommend the Bio Impression Primer since it was formulated for the Le Tonk Linseed Oil Varnish options. It is just a combination of resinous oils. Either option helps nourish the dry wood before buildings-up the surface protection with multiple coats of varnish. I would recommend either option as a first step for a bathroom, then maybe 3 coats of varnish to ensure ideal water repellency and protection since water/moisture will be commonplace in such a space. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Great Video!
Thanks! @GreenBuildingNetwork has been inspiring me to make more content.
🙏@@Earthandflaxstudio
I really appreciate your videos and I'll be using some of your paints on projects coming up. One question: can we expect 8-12 inches of hair loss while waiting for the 2nd undiluted coat to dry? 🙃 Look forward to using linseed oil paint on my first project soon.
Haha well, I sure hope not. If you are waiting that long, you are probably applying way too much paint per coat. Ensure relatively thin, even coats of LO Paint, in 60+ degree temps, and with good air circulation when painting inside. Enjoy and good luck with your first project!
Haven't tried Ottosson Brand yet. Have used another. I tried it on some shelves, but it stayed a bit sticky even after long drying time. Anything I would sit on them would stick. Then I thought to use a couple of coats of wax over the paint - no more sticking. It is much healthier to use natural oil and pigments, instead of the plastics and sythetics used in nearly every house.
Sounds like you trouble-shot that issue well! Try Ottosson at some point as it does dry a little harder that some other Linseed Oil Paint brands. Can be used for furniture, floors, etc. without additives or top-coating with wax or varnish. May give you a little more versatility ; )
Thank you for sharing this! I hope you’ll share more about the Mt. Vernon project. It makes complete sense that Mr. Ottosson started as an artist because his linseed oil paints are not only beautiful but a pleasure to work with. And they are durable! I live in SoCal where a five year old (latex) paint job is literally flaking off my 1947 house; it’s crazy to think of how much it will cost to continually repaint it! So about a year ago I tested Ottosson paint on one window sill, to see how it holds up. It has bonded to the wood and still looks fantastic, so we’ll use it to repaint the outside of our house, and on a long list of interior reno projects. I’m so grateful for this product, and for Earth+Flax making it available!
So great to hear you are enjoying the materials and pleased with the results of your tests. Big difference in how the natural, linseed oil-based paints interact with the substrate vs. modern coatings. There is just so much peeling paint around the country! Reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions once you get underway with your exterior project.
Thank you, will do!
I did my first project using Ottoson Linseed oil paint on an old door with 100years of paint on it. I have many projects coming up that I will be using this paint on.
Excellent! Sounds like you are on a roll. Don't hesitate to reach out via info@earthandflax.com with project/product questions.
How did you remove the old paint from your door? I assume it was lead paint?
Will you share the design plan for this workbench?
what about with lead paint ?
Nice and calm explained. Congratulation!
what grit sand paper did you prep with?
I want to paint pine tar on one of our out-buildings that was made with rough sawn wood. So the wood was never planed or sanded. Will the surface still be OK to apply pine tar? BTW your videos are so helpful for us on our 1870s homestead.
Great to hear! Yes, there should be no issue applying on that surface. We would recommend that you clean old wood before application using a petrochemical-free liquid soap like Linseed Oil Soap. Scrub if needed to remove dirt, carbon, organic growth, loose particulate, etc. Rinse well and let dry fully before applying your Pine Tar finish. Generally, rough cut will be thirstier, so to speak, and absorb more natural oils than a smooth cut siding. Hope this is helpful! Reach out via info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
Best is to use a natural brush. If you want to use a different applicator make sure you test first.